Retailer In Focus - Mat Bickley at Gloverall

If you spent time in Covent Garden in the 90s, you’ll remember The Duffer of St. George. It was a cult label ahead of its time—mixing streetwear, vintage Americana, and British tailoring with confidence. “Before Duffer, I ran my own stall in Camden Market selling deadstock from skate brands — Holmes, Stussy, Hang Ten, and Vans,” Mat says. “The people I met there naturally led me to Duffer. We were all part of the same scene, hanging out in clubs like Tongue Kung Fu in Soho. It felt like a natural step.”

There are stories from those years that still carry a certain electricity. “Most probably aren’t suitable for print,” he laughs. “But I do remember buying deadstock trainers from all over Europe, and at least one memorable self-funded trip to Japan specifically to buy old Peanuts gang sweatshirts – some of which fetch thousands of pounds today.”

Mat grew up in a household where clothing and culture were deeply intertwined. “My mother was a seamstress for Ossie Clark and Biba. My dad, a real ‘clothing maketh the man’ London dandy, taught me that clothing is more than fabric—it's identity,” he says. “In our house, fashion was the canvas we used to paint our personalities.”

That philosophy has followed him ever since. At Gloverall, Mat has started a quiet transformation—rooted not in reinvention, but in thoughtful partnerships and storytelling. The recent collaboration with Dawson Denim is one such example. “Even though Dawson’s latest pieces are now made in Japan, the ethos remains: small-scale production, obsessive attention to detail, and a deep respect for craft. That’s what excites me,” he says.

What began with Gloverall supporting Dawson’s Made in UK collection has grown into a deeper relationship, with the brand now investing in their Made in Japan range. “It’s not about chasing trends,” he explains. “It’s about making things that last, and working with people who care.”

For Mat, these decisions are never just commercial. His commitment to anti-racism, inclusivity, and ethics has long been at the heart of the work. “This isn’t a strategy for me—it’s just how I work,” he says. “I've done projects like the Stephen Lawrence Trust capsule at Mackintosh, but it’s also about opening doors where I can.”

Representation in the industry is something he’s always been vocal about—especially when it comes to creating space for others. “Real change starts long before people enter the industry,” he says. “I give talks to students because it’s important for young people to see themselves in fashion—not just as influencers, but in real decision-making roles.”

One of the most quietly powerful creative relationships Mat’s built in recent years is with photographer Danny Burrows. A former war journalist and passionate surfer, Danny brings an honesty to every image. “We first met as teenagers working Camden Market stalls, and reconnected years later in Deal,” Mat says. “There’s no over-planning. It’s instinctive and honest. That’s why it works.”

His creative instincts are also shaped by a personal identity that moves between worlds. His Instagram handle, @afrosaxon, reflects this. “It was inspired by an old East London brand from the 90s called Afro Punk,” he says. “It fits because I’ve always been a mix—British (Saxon) and Caribbean (Afro). Growing up between London and the US, I never felt fully inside one world or the other. That perspective has shaped how I see things.”

He recently returned from Japan—another place that has had a big impact on the way he thinks about design. “Japan is the one place I go that really changes how I see things,” he says. “There’s a level of care and respect for tradition that’s hard to find elsewhere.” If you’re heading there, his tips are simple: “Whistler Store in Koenji for vintage, Hinoya in Ueno for denim, and the Tokyo racecourse flea market. If you want something less polished—Osaka. And Kyoto is perfect when you need to slow down.”

Music, like clothing, is personal for Mat. “I go from film scores to 90s hip-hop to Bad Brains and Dead Kennedys,” he says. “Lately I’ve been into Dirty Projectors and Bad Brains —something about that raw edge mixed with melody.” He’s created a special mixtape for the Dawson Denim Spotify Channel , which you can listen to now.

Looking forward, Mat’s plans for Gloverall continue to mix heritage with purpose. A new initiative called Gloverall Renewed will feature collaborations with small British makers using surplus materials from the archive. One upcoming release? “7-panel caps made from upcycled corduroy shirts in collaboration with The Long Shot in Manchester. Each one is handmade. No two the same.”

When asked what advice he’d give to the next generation of creatives, his answer is simple and considered: “Nothing happens in isolation—do your research and trust your instincts. The best ideas come from an honest place. Creativity and business don’t have to be opposites.”

Listen to Mat Bickley’s curated playlist on the Dawson Denim Spotify Channel .